A Simple Recipe Leads to Serendipitous Reconnection for Great Plates Recipient Lulu
By Maddie Scher
Lulu, approaching 70 this January, is a recipient of SF New Deal’s Great Plates Delivered program. He recently received a meal prepared by Betty Zlatchin Catering, the company he used to work for in the late 1970s and early 1980s. SF New Deal’s content manager, Maddie, connected with Lulu to hear the full story after he reached out to recall the serendipitous connection. Coming to San Francisco to pursue his ballet career in the early 1970’s, Lulu became immersed in the drag community and ended up performing with the Angels of Light, an offspring of the Cockettes. He assisted with the creation of the Gay and Lesbian film festival (now known as Frameline) appearing in short and long films and documentaries, and can be seen playing Lucille Ball in the 19th Frameline trailer, “I Love Films” directed by David Weisman. Through this interview, Lulu recounted the experience of receiving a meal from Betty Zlatchin, complete with Roast Creamer Potatoes with Olive Oil and Rosemary (recipe below) and the memories it catalyzed. Lulu generously reflects on his role in the drag community and the Gay Rights movement, and shares his perspective on the changes to San Francisco and the reforms he hopes to see so artists like him remain supported by the city.
The interview has been lightly edited for clarity:
Lulu and Kim Novak at the Castro theater (photo provided by Lulu)
Lulu with friend Eric Reckord, during their time with Betty Zlatchin Catering (photo provided by Betty Zlatchin)
How long have you been receiving meals from SF New Deal?
I heard about Great Plates on TV, about San Francisco and the state of California (from our wonderful Governor, who I have met before and I asked him what he put in his hair and he wouldn’t tell me, because he couldn't endorse a product). I love California and how it’s taking care of its people. I saw that the state wanted to support the businesses that were struggling here in San Francisco. And so when I heard they're planning this program where they will pay these places in San Francisco to send meals to people who are in need and qualify, I was like, what restaurant in San Francisco is not good? I mean, are you kidding me? I called up and I got on the waiting list and they said ‘well if you're on the waiting list you're in,’ because I qualified I got it, I guess as soon as it started.
One [of the restaurants] was Jane The Bakery’s - fab-u-lous - I mean, smoked salmon? And then, a whole loaf of bread here and there? Or like, these lemon cakes, the whole loaf of lemon cake or lemon bread? I heard that their bakery has lines down the street for it. I’d have to say Jane’s Bakery was like, oh what you're doing in my waistline. Oh, yes, oh, yes. Oh no, oh no! But I have to say that was wonderful.
And then, all of a sudden, I'm like who's this from? I was eating this meal and I was tasting roasted potato with rosemary and I'm like,oh my gosh, this takes me back to 1979 when I was catering with Betty Zlatchin, and I learned about roasting potatoes with fresh rosemary, salt and pepper. And I looked and it was from Betty Zlatchin! I just started to cry because it was like 29, 30 years ago that I was working in that world, and to this day that one little potato with that little taste of rosemary carried on and just rang a bell with me. I was like, in the past, in the present, in the future, and this is the first time I ever cried over a potato, you know, who would have guessed?
Lulu (left of center) and the Betty Zlatchin catering team (Photo provided by Betty Zlatchin).
I was Betty Zlatchin’s seventh employee. I was number seven on the list and she shattered the world - she, like Martha Stewart, was in that category here in the Bay Area, and our clients were like, Dianne Feinstein, the Gettys, big names, and their old Victorian buildings with lousy plumbing, you know? But we would be catering in many famous people's places. It was an honor to learn how to give French service and English service depending on what they wanted. It was theater to me, I always loved working with food, but I have to say that Betty Zlatchin is the one who taught me visual presentation and the best way of presenting things.
I was hired to be on the serving staff and then I was learning everything else on the side. By the end, I was doing the flower arrangements and the displays. I would pull out beautiful sheets of marble, baskets and everything and just create sculptures with food for the Bank of America's Christmas party or something. I love her for giving me the reins for that and showing me a good eye for food and a good eye for quality and presentation.
The Betty Zlatchin catering team from 1979 to 1981; Lulu pictured on the far left in the striped shirt and glasses (Photo provided by Lulu).
Tell me about your involvement in drag in San Francisco
When I left New Hampshire to pursue my ballet career here in San Francisco, California then it was crazy. I ended up in Ukiah, at California’s Orr Hot Springs new age community. Then belly dancing, tap dancing, winning The Gong Show, and then living in a Zen Temple here in San Francisco, studying Shiatsu while doing drag theater on Broadway. I moved here in 1972 and I just wanted to do theater. I wanted to do comedy and I wanted to do some drag too. I ended up working with a group called The Angels of Light theater company, they were the offspring of the Cockettes, as well as performing Butoh with a Japanese dance company. Angels of Light was free theater with amazing people, talent, and a lot of dysfunctional fun.
Photo from lulugetsafacelift.com
I was doing drag theater during the Anita Bryant days of Proposition 6, which would have prevented gay people from working in the school system and everything. And so we ended up doing political theater and we were called Strange Fruit. My dream was to always be Lucy and I ended up being Lucy [from I Love Lucy], if you check out the trailer for the 19th Gay Film Festival you'll see me as Lucy. They built a whole set of My Dream Come True. We were performing to raise consciousness in the gay community. I mean, so much was going on, we didn’t think about it, we just knew that we had to work for gay rights.
That's how it started and then we also started the Gay Film Festival. The first gay film festival we started I hung a sheet up on the ceiling and we showed 16 millimeter movies. I ended up acting and filming quite a few things in the Gay Film Festival (now called Frameline). Full length features, comedy shorts, and film trailers.
My film Lulu Gets a Facelift took me all the way to London and the London papers said this was the best movie in the whole film festival. Eventually we ended up using our talents, unfortunately, to help raise money for our friends who were suffering of AIDS. Thank God I got a catering job at Betty Zlatchin to help pay my bills! I also ended up managing a restaurant called Squids which was very hip and happening and also continued doing movies. One was called Whatever Happened to Susan Jane, that took us to Florence, Italy, and it was a wonderful experience.
Photo From lulugetsafacelift.com
How long have you lived in San Francisco and how has San Francisco changed over the course of your time here?
Well, when I came here to pursue my ballet career, and then I got sucked up into what was really happening here with the people and the talents and the artists, it was a cesspool of magical talent, I mean amazing people, musicians, artists from every angle. It was only $250 for a two-bedroom apartment. You didn't have to have three jobs to make the rent happen. I was living in an apartment building for 22 years and I got evicted. Then I lived in another apartment for like 10 years and I got pushed out again for profit - everybody was getting pushed out. Artists couldn't afford to be here. They were moving to Oakland, Oregon, and Seattle, and this reduced the art, music and colorful creators who made this city.
I had a business that got taken down completely. I lost everything, as well as my dream of a future. Getting older made it hard for me to find work that would pay the rent here. So I was lucky to find SF housing for the elderly, and I am living on my social security and to help pay my bills, I am an IHSS caregiver to three wonderful people. The salary is paid for by our fabulous city
What do you hope this opportunity for reflection holds for San Francisco? What would you like to see change?
Well, it starts with the politicians of the state and the city, getting rent control and also appointing housing for LGBT people, as well as the artists and musicians that have left town. And so, call it socialism, but I mean if the states would provide proper housing for artists and musicians...how do you tell the government to honor the poor and the talented, without calling it socialism? How do we make that happen? We need to bring the people and the magic and the art back here. But the only way you're going to do it is go against the grain and lower the rent and control the rent.
Is there anything else you would like to add?
My love and respect and a big thank you to this program. I’m so glad it happened. And my thanks to all of the volunteers and all the people involved, as well as the people in the state who made this happen. This was the first time I'm seeing a reach out from the government, for our community and our people. It took COVID to give it a good push. So thanks to all and everybody who's involved. And where there is love, pass it on.
A Portrait of Betty Zlatchin (Photo provided by Betty Zlatchin)
Meals for SF New Deal being prepared by Betty Zlatchin’s team (Photo provided by Betty Zlatchin)
I reached out to Betty Zlatchin for the recipe for those potatoes so that everyone could try it this season, and here is what she wrote:
“[Lulu] was such fun to work with and so creative...I want to make a special mention to Lulu and the group of friends. Most of these early staff were musicians, theater people and writers. Their energy and creativity made catering each day a new adventure, a new production, and so much fun. Thank you to them.”
Tom’s Roast Creamer Potatoes with Olive Oil and Rosemary
Makes 2 servings:
4-6 baby creamer potatoes or other potatoes (cut into small halves). Drizzle with 1-2 teaspoons olive oil and some chopped up fresh rosemary leaves (no stems). Sprinkle with a bit of salt (sea salt or Maldon salt is best).
Place potatoes, cut flat side down, on ovenproof pan or shallow ovenproof dish.
Bake 15 - 18 minutes in very hot oven (400 or 425 degrees).
You may want to turn them over to check if the flat side is browned, because that’s the best part.
Optional: add 2-4 small garlic cloves if desired, they will become creamy and yummy.